How often have we heard that? Zealous four-wheelers are bent on saving us from our own stupidity. Of course our bulbs are dim. Anyone bright wouldn’t go near one of those two-wheeled death machines. “It’s too risky,” they intone piously.

In a small part, they are right. There is risk involved in operating a motorcycle. There’s also risk involved in driving on a freeway, even in a tank. And it’s purely insane to sleep on a waterbed if we have cats. The trick is to manage the risks and to not take dumb risks.

One of the main keys to managing risks is to take a motorcycle rider course, and to keep the mental and physical skills we learn sharp. Many skills are lost in six months if they aren’t practiced. Knowing good cornering and curve-riding techniques doesn’t do us any good if we don’t practice them.

Knowing our limits, the limits of our machines, and the limits of our environment and riding within those limits is also critical. We must remember that those limits change constantly and adapt our riding style to conform to them.

Superior riders never get themselves into situations requiring superior skills. Taking dumb risks is asking for trouble. If we keep pushing our limits, we will eventually exceed them, and the consequences can be devastating or even fatal. Riding faster and faster though a familiar curve can spell disaster when we’ve pushed our traction to the limits and there’s something unexpected in the road halfway through the curve. Riding fast in the rain just because we’re in a hurry makes no sense when we know we can’t stop quickly. Slowing down and putting distances between us and a hazard is sensible risk management. Replacing worn tires helps keep us safely stuck to the road.

Part of the challenge of motorcycling is risk management, and the sport wouldn’t be very enjoyable if we wrapped ourselves in cotton and surrounded ourselves with a cocoon of safety devices. However, the sport is more fun if we don’t have to worry about dangers we create for ourselves.

But perhaps the problem is that you are so good at avoiding using emergency maneuvers that you’re out of practice. If you ride properly, you don’t get to practice some of your skills on the street. That doesn’t mean you should let them deteriorate until the next time you take a rider course.

That’s why they make parking lots. And you thought those painted yellow lines were just there to corral the cars. Their real purpose is to provide a marked area to practice so you can keep all your skills sharp—not just the ones you use every day. The same skills which degrade in a few months can be retuned in a few minutes of practice.

Quick stops are easy to practice on a good parking lot with a good surface. Bring your speed up to 15–20 mph, look at a distant object straight ahead, and squeeze the front brake while you press on the rear brake. You squeeze quickly, progressively and hard. Do not grab the front brake. If you keep the speed the same for several tries while you start braking at the same yellow line, you can measure your progress.

Now comes the fun part-swerving around an object. Recently, one study found that an expert rider could swerve as sharply on his Gold Wing as he could on a much smaller bike. You won’t believe just how quickly you can swerve. Try swerving around an eight-foot wide obstruction (tennis balls cut in half) at 15 mph. Remember, do not brake or downshift while swerving.

Once you bring these two skills up to par, it’s time to put them together. Quick stops on a curve require you to (1) straighten up before you (2) brake hard to stop. Let’s look at that order again. First press on the handlebar near the outside of the curve. (If you’re turning right, press left.) Press until the bike is completely vertical. Be sure to straighten the handlebars as the bike straightens up. Once you are straight, all your traction is available for stopping. Look at a distant object straight ahead, and quickly and progressively squeeze the front brake while you press on the rear brake.

You have just put two skills (swerving and stopping) together (but not too closely) to practice quick stops on a curve. Now you’re ready to go out and face the world again, much better prepared than when you rode into that parking lot. You’ve tuned yourself up for another few months.

DECIDE WHICH BIKE IS BEST FOR YOU

Notice here, I avoided the word ‘want’, because what you want, and what suits you best are totally different animals. It’s all very well finally aspiring to the bike of your dreams only to find that you fall off at every junction because your legs are too short, or it’s so fast that it scares you to death, so retain a modicum of common sense when making your purchase. There’s also the question of what you can afford. You may scrape together the money to buy the bike in the first place, but can you really afford to run it. Don’t forget; fast bikes are costly to insure, especially if you are young or have no ‘no claims’ bonus.

DO YOUR HOMEWORK

Right, you’ve decided which bike to buy and you’re off to get your eager hands upon the beauty, but wait, hold on a minute. Before you jump in, ought you not to test the water? It’s time to survey the market. This is an important point, because it could save you a lot of money. You’re going to have to decide whether you’re going to buy privately or from a dealer. Of course, buying privately is cheaper, but if you go down this route, make sure you know what you’re doing. Buying from a dealer will offer more protection should there be a problem with the machine after you’ve owned it for a week or two. Shop around and see who’s offering the best deal. If necessary, hold back and wait until the bike you want is available.

BE METICULOUS WITH THE PAPERWORK

You may find a motorcycle that is just the thing for you, suits you down to the ground and is reasonably priced, but that price won’t look so good if you buy the bike, only to discover a few weeks later that the person who sold the motorbike didn’t actually own it. If the seller cannot provide the documentation for the motorbike, don’t touch it. Make sure that the address on the registration document is the same as the sellers.

A LITTLE HISTORY

Alright, we’ve ascertained that the person who’s selling the motorcycle is the rightful owner; well he thinks he is anyway. The fact is that if the motorcycle was bought on finance by someone who overstretched themselves and failed to keep up with the payments, the bike could well be the property of the money lenders. Firstly, ask the seller if the bike is paid for; unless he’s an out and out liar, he’s going to come clean and save you a lot of hassle. If he seems to be a decent chap and you believe him…don’t. Invest in a vehicle check. It could be the best money you ever spent.

THE VIEWING

Never, ever, ever, ever view a vehicle at any other place than the seller’s home. Believe me; even if you have to travel a long distance to see the motorcycle, it’s worth going that extra mile or two. Don’t be tempted by offers to meet half way at a road side cafe or some such place. I hardly need to say this, but don’t go at night. All vehicles look better under street lights. Now here’s a really good idea; if you’re not too hot on the mechanical side of things, take someone along who knows about bikes.

DOES IT GO

And more to the point, is it going to keep going? I refer back to the point about taking someone along who is knows about motorbikes. If you don’t have a friend who fits into this category, it may be well worth paying someone who does. In the grand scheme of things a little extra on the price of the bike isn’t too much to bear. The alternative could be unthinkable.

BARGAIN?

The motorcycle is a few years old, but according to the clock it must have been sitting in a garage, but hold on a minute, it looks a little worn in places. Watch out for ‘clocking’. Ask the seller to produce test certificates from previous years and check to se if they tally with the recorded mileage.

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

Check it. It’s not only humans that suffer from identity theft. Make sure you’re not buying a ringer. Every vehicle carries a unique number; do your utmost to ensure that the number hasn’t been changed.

THE TEST RIDE

Before you take the bike out for a ride, explain to the owner that you’re going to be gone for at least half an hour. It’s no good just going down the road and back and hoping to get a feel for a bike that you’re going to be living with for a while. Take more care choosing your bike than your partner (most people do).

SOMETHING FISHY

If something doesn’t seem right, if there’s a little niggles in the back of your mind, go home and think about it… no, just go home, leave it. Another bike will come along in due course.

TRAVEL LIGHLTY

It’s tempting to throw as much as possible into your panniers, but remember, every ounce you pack onto your bike reduces handling qualities. Add to this a pillion and the needle on the pleasure-ometer begins to swing to the low side. Of course, there are some things that you can’t do without, but the keyword here is need. Take what you need and nothing more. If you are going on an organized guided tour, the company should (if it’s worth its salt) have a back-up vehicle that will carry your luggage.

PACK SENSIBLY

To optimize the handling of your bike, place heavy items at the bottom of your panniers.

BEFORE YOU GO

In the weeks leading up to your planned tour, begin making a list of what you might need to take with you. At this stage, it doesn’t matter if the list is too long; you can always cross things off as the time draws nearer. By using this method, you will ensure that the things you take with you are what you really need. You will also reduce the risk of leaving behind an essential item.

MOTORCYCLE LUGGAGE

Unless you like riding for hours with a rucksack strapped to your back, it’s invariably better to have panniers and back box. Detachable panniers are great; they can be unhooked as carried like a suitcase. Belt bags are also popular for carrying things like money, credit cards and mobile phone.

TO ROLL OR NOT TO ROLL

You’ll have to decide this for yourselves, but personally speaking I prefer to roll my clothes before placing them in a bag inside the panniers. Other riders like to lay things flat, but it doesn’t work for me. Some bikers like to use zippable plastic bags that are sat upon to squeeze out the air before they are sealed. They claim that the vacuum keeps their clothes crease-free, but of course, I’m just not heavy enough (hee-hee).

TANK BAGS

Tank bags are fine and some of expandable ones can hold quite a lot of luggage, but it does take the fun out of it a little bit for me. If you’re going on a tour with a back-up vehicle, you only have to put up with the tank bag until you reach your starting point, then someone else carries it for you; great.

PLASTIC SEALABLE BAG

It’s always good to keep your smelly socks away from your good clothes. How many times have you gone into your luggage and found that you can’t decide whether you’ve worn those socks once before or not?

SMALL ITEMS

Very often small items are forgotten, such as; mobile phone charger, camera, camera batteries, first-aid kit, toiletries etc. This is when list-making comes into its own. If you’re going to a hot country, don’t forget your insect bite/sting cream. Something I always carry is a pack of tissues; I know it’s just a small item, but it comes under ‘Essentials’ for me.

REALLY ESSENTIAL

If you get as excited as I do prior to a motorcycle tour, please pay extra attention to making sure that you are carrying your bike documents and driving license. If you are going overseas, don’t forget your passport, or you’ll be turning around and going home. .

DON’T FORGET

Unless you are heading for some remote region, there will always be a chance to buy things that you forget, but you aren’t really going on a shopping trip so try to remember as much as you can. No doubt, there will be something you need, and it can be fun finding these things in a foreign town, but if the list is long, it can become tiresome.

Well, you’ve packed and you’re on your way. Have a great time and ride safely. May the roads be long and winding, and the sky blue.

Most of these choppers have been built from motorcycle chopper kits, the “bike in a box” approach. But hey, don’t knock it! Building your own chopper has never been easier. There are rolling chassis kits, complete bike kits, and frame manufacturers give you a multitude of choice when it comes to take the plunge and buy a motorcycle chopper kit.

Thirty years ago, the old school chopper builders had to start with a stock bike off-the-shelf and literally chop it to pieces. With the modern chopper kits, there is a viable alternative to taking the cutting torch to your favorite soft tail!

Nowadays, you have a cheap and easier way to build the bike from the ground up. When you take the cost of buying a new bike and the expense of chopping it, it works out much cheaper to start from step one, and your chopper kit. Instead of tossing away the parts that you’ll never use again, you can start building your own bike with the parts that you really need. All the parts are included in the motorcycle chopper kit, along with comprehensive instructions.

One of the first questions that people ask when considering buying a kit is how will my bike stand outs from all the other chopper kits? Well think of it this way, you are going to buy a chopper kit. A pile of unassembled raw metal. No paint, no real finish, just a blank canvas. Is your taste in paint jobs likely to be the same as the next guy, who buys the very same kit? I don’t think so. What about your taste in bolt-ons, seats, exhausts? Just because you buy the kit doesn’t mean every little thing has to be just so. That is the whole point isn’t it? It’s very easy in this way to build your own custom chopper from a chopper kit.

Another big question is, “How long”? The answer to that is as long as it takes. Even on the kit bikes, which are supposed to be designed to fit together like a glove, you are going to run into some snags. It can’t be avoided!

If you want a more concrete guide, try this. An experienced kit builder (though not a professional) I spoke to reckons it took 10 full days to build his last chopper from a kit. For someone less experienced it could take a couple of days longer. Twelve 9 hour days works out at 108 hours. Over evenings and weekends, this could drag out to three or four weeks of living in a pile of motorcycle parts! So be prepared to literally live the experience if you are going to take the plunge.

What about the practical side? Well, there is no substitute for experience. The place to start building up your experience with the mechanical side of building to kit bike is with your current ride. Make sure all you can do the basic maintenance on your motorcycle, and then start to do some simple disassembling. Take off the tires, take off the exhaust, real basic stuff; all of this will help to build a new confidence in the shop side of things. You can also get some great videos on maintenance, and even on building the custom bike of your dreams. Read the books, watch the videos, and buy the t-shirt! Believe me, all the preparation you make will stand you in good stead.

If you really are hopeless at the mechanical side of things, why not pay someone else to help you build it, or even get them to build the whole thing for you? The cost of the kit plus labor could well work out cheaper than buying a chopper “off the shelf”.

And of course, when that beautiful chopper is standing on your driveway, and your friends are asking you “Was it worth it?” you can turn to the chopper, drag your hand across the flames on the tank and the polished chrome, turn back to them and say, “What do you think?”